The developer behind the vision to transform an old Cairns bank building into The Chambers, Joan Wilson, likes the fact that her head chef Ryan Dolan runs a quiet kitchen.

Unlike the fiery antics of Gordon Ramsay, Joan believes a scene of calm focus mixed with a kind of understated passion are the secrets to a successful restaurant.

“You know a chef is good when they run a quiet kitchen,” Joan tells Tropic. “Gone are the days of shouting and pot throwing. Ryan’s food does all the talking.”

Joan would never boast or brag about her vision for The Chambers, even though her commitment to invest in its redevelopment with pain-staking detail and dedication to its architectural heritage certainly warrants broader recognition and respect.

Instead - just like Ryan’s food - she wants visitors to this multi-faceted development to experience it of their own accord, free of hype or embellishment.

And there will be a lot to experience when the beautifully restored, over-sized doors on the corner of Spence and Lake Sts swing open for the very first time in coming months.

WHEN GREAT ARCHITECTURE MEETS GREAT FOOD

With an almost revelatory homage to details that speak of the building’s colourful history, and that of the city streets from which it sprung, The Chambers will reveal itself in myriad ways across three venues: the texture of original brickwork, the lovely curvature of the iconic archways, the light and shadows thrown against walls at different times of the day.

And the stunning selection of food and beverages, of course.

The Chambers will be home to a laidback café called Tattler, a fine-dining restaurant known as SoMa and a wine bar named esters.

Chef Ryan brings his passion for the rebellious style of cooking in France known as “bistronomy” to The Chambers, a revolution in dining where chefs eschewed the formal stuffiness of traditional French dining in favour of more affordable and relaxed – but no less delicious – menu offerings.

“The format introduced by French bistronomy chefs in the 1990s was simple; to be able to use their skills in a more instinctive, free-flowing style of cooking which changed regularly, using the same produce from Michelin Star restaurants but offering dishes at a fraction of the price,” Ryan explains to Tropic.

“Although the atmosphere of bistronomy restaurants was lively, décor was kept minimal. Gone were the white tablecloths and waiters hovering over the diners to pour water or comb the breadcrumbs off the table.

“The menus across the three venues inside The Chambers will be a balancing act, combining the perception of what local diners like to eat while bringing in a style of cooking that is new to Cairns.

“It’s also about looking at how we can use ingredients in different ways. What I want our customers to experience is something on the plate that shows a sense of place – something that is tropical, light, and above all tasty.”

RELAXED AND REFINED

His new colleague Angela Stayte – venue manager of The Chambers – joins him as a key driver of the new enterprise, responsible for delivering on the promise the building’s restoration holds.

“It’s relaxed and refined,” Angela says. “I knew from the moment I set foot on the construction site I wanted to be a part of this. The building was beautiful even in its rawness at the time. The excitement of bringing it to life sat well alongside my own design interests as well as a long history and passion for the industry.

“This is exciting for Cairns! And for all those involved bringing another level of service to the region through design, and a pure understanding of hospitality.”

Joan hopes The Chambers contributes to a CBD that is growing up and going places. Rather than go it alone and play hard ball with potential competitors, you get the satisfying sense that The Chambers team subscribes to the philosophy embodied by the old saying “a rising tide lifts all boats”.

“There are many establishments in Cairns with terrific offerings for locals and tourists alike,” Joan tells Tropic.

“Look at C’est Bon - have you tried to get a booking there lately! Piccolo Cucina have nailed Italian food, you’ve got Three Wolves with its understated location and fabulous cocktails, and add to that Cairns institutions like Barnacle Bills, Dundee’s and Ochre.

“We want The Chambers to be part of the emerging food and beverage scene in our city. I see our team as being friendly, attentive and service driven, the surroundings being beautifully relaxing whether indoors or out and the food and wine offerings being amazing.

“Throw in some beers, a classic cocktail or two, and add to that a choice of three venues… I can’t think of anyone who wouldn’t be ready for that. Can you?”